Showing posts with label pu er history. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pu er history. Show all posts

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Pu Er History

Not only Yunnan is the origin of world's tea trees but also the reputable native place of Puer tea. According to 'Xu Bo wu Zhi' (or 'A Sequel To Cyclopaedia Of Natural Science') written by Li Shi in Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279 A.D.), people living in the juncture area of Tibet, Yunnan and Sichuan drank Puer tea as early as Tang Dynasty (61 8-907A.D.) during which tea trade was also flourishing. Zhao Xuemin (circa 1719-1805 A.D.), a physician and famous pharmacist of Qing Dynasty, wrote in his 'Ben Cao Gang Mu Shi Yi' (or 'A Supplement To The Compendium Of Materia Medica') that Puer Tea (sometimes spelled "Puerh Tea", "Pu-er Tea" or "Puer Tea") Tea was a namesake specialty of Puer Prefecture. An important town in Yunnan province now known as Puer County , Puer is a distributing center of tea. Where as Mt. Liuchashan ( Six Famous Tea Mountain ) - a Specific place from which Puer tea produced, is situated within the prefectural boundary of Xishuanbanna in Simao District. Renowned for its scenic mountains, mild climate, frost-free winter and spring, abundant rainfall, nebulous ambience and fertile soil, the place is the native centre of origins of world's tea trees.

In accordance with an ancient Dai document of Xishuanbanna , Yunnan had tea trees planting some 1,700 years ago. There is an old tea tree called the 'King of tea trees' still growing on Nannuo Mountain in Menghai County of the same prefecture. In 1961, a large wild tea tree was discovered in the primeval forest on Dahei Mountain of the same county. That tree rose 32.1 m high with a diameter of 1.03m and its age was over 1,700 years old. Exuberant and verdant, it still can yield quality tea leaves. Yunnan's favourably natural conditions are suitable for the breeding of its large-leaf tea trees which feature early budding, strong buds, long growth period, tender leaf texture, etc. They have become unique materials for preparing Puer Tea.

Different from black tea and green tea, Puer tea leaves are processed from large-leaf and dried Qingmao tea through special fermentation. They are broad and brownish red in colour. When preparing tea, a pleasantly mellow fragrance exudes. Puer tea is in fact a rare health drink for all ages. Literati throughout Chinese history had highly praised the beverage. Wang Yu of Song Dynasty. Zhao Xuemin of Qing Dynasty and Cao Xueqin (author of 'Dream of the Red Mansion ') had Puer tea mentioned in their works.

Receiving popularity among consumers in some 20 countries and regions upon its entering into international markets is not a fortuity for Puer tea. A medical experiment conducted by a hospital in France proved that regular consumption of the tea can apparently lower blood lipid by 13%(3 cups/day in one month). The tea can also lower the alcoholic contents in blood. Besides, over 40% of the subjects which drink Puer Tea lose their weight for different extents obviously for people of the 40-50 age group. For lowering lipid matters, 34% were tested with excellent result and 33% good, Triglyceride, cholesterol and uric acid can be lowered to various levels as well. Thus, Puer Tea is renowned as slimming tea or health tea in Japan , Italy , Hong Kong , Macao , etc.

A clinical test conducted by Kunming Medical Institute proved that Yunnan Puer Tea has a higher curative effect than clofibrate, a medicine to cure lipemia. Same effect has been verified on lowering cholesterol level. No side-effect occurs for regular consumption. Recent medical experiments also report that Puer Tea decoction (100g of tea to be boiled in 700m1 water and take q.i.d.) is bacteriostatic, especially effective against bacillary dysentery. Therefore, regular consumption of Puer Tea can promote dysentery too. Unlike other stimulating black teas and because of its mild nature, Puer tea can cut the grease, help digestion, promote body fluid secretion, quench thirst, vigorate the spleen and dispel alcoholic toxics.

Yunnan Puer tea is available in compressed and bulk forms. Compressed teas (known as Tuocha) include Yunnan Green Tuocha and Yunnan Puer Tuocha (bowl-shaped), Yunnan Chi Tsu Beeng Cha (full-moon-shaped), Puer Square tea cakes (square-board-shaped), Puer tea Bricks (rectangle-shaped). They are famous produce of tea factories in Xiaguan, Menghai and Kunming . Bulk tea features broad, stout and brownish red tea leaves with brightly red decoction and unique mellow flavour. Dozens of Yunnan 's tea factories produce bulk Pu-reh tea and the tea is sold abroad in numerous brand names.

which drink Puer Tea lose their weight for different extents obviously for people of the 40-50 age group. For lowering lipid matters, 34% were tested with excellent result and 33% good, Triglyceride, cholesterol and uric acid can be lowered to various levels as well. Thus, Puer Tea is renowned as slimming tea or health tea in Japan , Italy , Hong Kong , Macao , etc.

A clinical test conducted by Kunming Medical Institute proved that Yunnan Puer Tea has a higher curative effect than clofibrate, a medicine to cure lipemia. Same effect has been verified on lowering cholesterol level. No side-effect occurs for regular consumption. Recent medical experiments also report that Puer Tea decoction (100g of tea to be boiled in 700m1 water and take q.i.d.) is bacteriostatic, especially effective against bacillary dysentery. Therefore, regular consumption of Puer Tea can promote dysentery too. Unlike other stimulating black teas and because of its mild nature, Puer tea can cut the grease, help digestion, promote body fluid secretion, quench thirst, vigorate the spleen and dispel alcoholic toxics.

Yunnan Puer tea is available in compressed and bulk forms. Compressed teas (known as Tuocha) include Yunnan Green Tuocha and Yunnan Puer Tuocha (bowl-shaped), Yunnan Chi Tsu Beeng Cha (full-moon-shaped), Puer Square tea cakes (square-board-shaped), Puer tea Bricks (rectangle-shaped). They are famous produce of tea factories in Xiaguan, Menghai and Kunming . Bulk tea features broad, stout and brownish red tea leaves with brightly red decoction and unique mellow flavour. Dozens of Yunnan 's tea factories produce bulk Pu-reh tea and the tea is sold abroad in numerous brand names.



General Process of making Puer Tea

After tea leaves are being picked, it goes thru a process of “killing the green” in order to eliminate the grassy taste and to control oxidation.
Then it is taken to the kneading process just like red tea.
Then it goes thru the “stacking” process, a process that allows the tea to oxidize till the leaves turns dark brown.
Tea is then brought to further kneading and then dried.
Different kinds of tea goes thru some unique process in order to form the different shapes of the tea. You may find more information at the product description.

Health Benefits of Puer Tea

It's soothing properties aids digestions, best after heavy greasy meals.
Lowers cholesterol
Blood cleansing properties aids in weight loss.

Character

This tea is commonly known to be earthy with a woody aroma. It has a full body and strong taste. Good quality Puer tea are extremely smooth in texture.

Brewing Method

Tea ware : Yi Xing clay pot or Chinese Gai Wan
Water Temperature : 100°c hot water
Warm tea ware by rinsing them with hot water
Pour approximately 7g of black tea leaves into pot, pour hot water into pot and discard water (for cleansing and releasing flavor of the tea)
Pour water and steep tea leaves water for 1-2 minutes for the first brew and increase steeping time for subsequent brewing.

Monday, June 23, 2008

Monday, June 9, 2008

茶马古道文化及其开发价值

普洱特辑  加入时间:2007-6-11 10:07:17

据《膳夫记》记载:“茶,古不闻食之,近晋、宋以降,吴人采其叶煮,是
为茗粥。至开元、天宝之际,稍有茶,至德、大历逐多,建中以后盛矣。”可知,唐初饮茶之风,尚限于我国东南及西南等地区。自唐太宗贞观十五年(641)文成公主下嫁吐蕃(今西藏)与赞普松赞干布结为“甥舅之好”时,文成公主带去茶和茶籽,为藏区种茶饮茶之始。唐玄宗开元年间(713~741年),唐与吐蕃设有“马市”,贞元末“回纥入朝,始驱茶马互市”。早期的“茶马互市”在西南地区是以四川与陕西两省交易为主。云南与吐蕃直接进行茶叶交易,应始于(唐)南诏,到(宋)大理国时期,又有将茶叶供给四川再与西北地区进行茶马贸易。
云南,位于中国西南边陲,地处云贵高原、青藏高原及东南亚半岛的结合部。“茶马互市”兴起之时,统治云南的(唐)南诏(738~902年)地方政权,正好处于唐王朝与吐蕃两大势力之间。据(唐)樊绰《蛮书》:“茶出银生城界诸山,散收无采造法,蒙舍蛮椒姜桂合,烹而饮之”的记载。“银生城”,为南诏时设“银生节度”,郡址银生即今景东,其所辖的范围,包括今天的思茅及西双版纳傣族自治州一带。“蒙舍蛮”在今巍山南部,即后来统一“六诏”,建立威震西南的南诏国王室蒙氏。“椒姜桂合,烹而饮之”,是今云南彝、白、傣、爱尼、拉祜、布朗、纳西、傈僳、藏等众多少数民族的饮茶习俗。唐初,吐蕃势力已扩展到滇西北的洱海地区,唐王朝为遏制吐蕃势力,一方面使用武力,于公元707年,唐中宗李显派唐九征出征云南,毁吐蕃在洱海地区所控制的漾水、泌水二桥,并在洱海地边立纪功的“唐标铁柱”;另一方面,又支持“率种诚归,累代如此”的蒙舍诏(在六诏之南,又称“南诏”)诏主皮逻阁灭了其他“五诏”,统一了整个洱海地区,于唐开元二十六年(738年)定都太和城(今大理太和村西),建立南诏国。统一后的南诏,欲扩张自己的势力范围,则又与唐王朝发生矛盾,爆发了著名的“天宝之战”。战争爆发后,南诏叛唐归附吐蕃,吐蕃封南诏为“蒙国大诏”(意为兄弟之国),后降为“日东王”。后来南诏感到归附吐蕃害多利少,又迫于人心归唐的压力,欲归附唐王朝。唐德宗贞元九年(公元793年)唐与南诏举行“苍山会盟”。次年,唐王朝册封南诏王异牟寻为“云南王”,南诏又与唐重归于好。唐、南诏和吐蕃的争战与友好,均有利于茶文化的传播。据《滴露浸露》记载:居住在青藏高原的藏、蒙、回等少数民族“以其腥肉之食,非茶不消,青稞之热,非茶不解。”相传,莲花生大师为解除藏民无茶的痛苦,他像“神农尝百草,日遇七十二毒,得茶而解之”一样,最终找到一种像茶的草,藏语称作“尔吉德加”,意为“莲花宝茶”,因茶有消食去腻、止渴解酒、提神益思的康乐作用,大受牧民欢迎,至宋代已是“夷人不可一日无茶以生”了。北方蒙、藏、回等民族,上至贵族,下至庶民饮茶成风。

中国在唐、宋时期,形成宋与辽、夏分庭对峙的局面,西南还有吐蕃与大理国割据。北宋的战马来源十分匮乏,而马对于西北的“战”与“和”、“胜”与“败”,又是关系到国家安危的大事,所以宋朝统治者十分重视“马政”。饮茶风气盛行,茶叶又是西北民族不可少的饮品。宋初,除官方设立的“马市”外,又有茶商“转致于西北,以致散于夷狄,其利又特厚”的经营活动。这为宋朝统治者提供了经验和启示:只有垄断西北茶利,以其所需茶叶换其所有的战马,以达到互通有无,方能保证宋朝所需的马源,又能达到控制诸蕃的目的,于是“茶马互市”制度便应运而生了。
宋代“易马”主要在陕甘宁地区,换马所需的茶也就近取于蜀(四川)。在宋英宗治平元年(1064年),当时陕西买马官薛向奏请朝廷在原、渭、德顺军三处买马场,以盐钞买马,卖马蕃客执盐钞可至秦州买马司换取蜀茶。到宋熙宁四年(1071年),宋神宗又下令禁止茶商买马,川茶全部实行官家专卖,茶利统统由茶马司垄断。此时,绢帛、金银、钱币、茶货兼行的买马制度,转变为官营的“茶马互市”。据《宋史》记载:“都大提举茶马司掌榷之利,以佑邦用,凡市马于四夷,率以茶易之”。据宋代史料记载:卖茶场,从熙宁七年(1074年)至元丰八年(1085年)的10年间就多达332个。

云南与四川、广西、西藏三省山水相连,云南是“茶的故乡”,为确保四川茶叶之利,宋王朝又在滇、蜀、粤三省交界地州设立买马场。(宋)陆游在《剑南诗稿》中有:“国家一从失西陲,年年买马西南夷”的诗句,赞宋王朝与大理国“茶马互市”的情况。大理马又称“越赕驹”,据李石《续博物志》卷四记载:“马出越赕之西,若羔、细莎縻之,七步可御,日驰数百里”。宋熙宁六年(1073),“置马市于蜀之黎雅州”,向大理国买马。
从以上的史实可说明“茶马古道”,始于唐初“马市”,至宋初方有“茶马互市”,对西蕃(甘、陕)而言,是朝廷以“茶”换“(战)马”,供军队使用;对云南而言,应是民间在云南与四川、广西、西藏边境的城镇贸易,既“卖茶”,又“易马”,既有官方交易,也有民间的贸易。
二、 茶马古道的形成与线路

“茶马古道”,始于唐初的“马市”,宋为“茶马互市”。其范围应包括我国南方各主要茶产区与西北畜牧区的“茶马互市”。对云南而言,这里所谈论的茶马古道并非一开始就是马帮运茶的路线,古道沿途的马蹄印也并非都是运茶的马蹄踏出来的。茶马古道最先是借用西南古代对外交通线“蜀身毒道”的路段,诸如秦、汉直至元明时期的官道(驿站)作为贡茶道,民间的商贸之始并非仅是茶叶,而有盐、铁、丝绸等交易。(宋)周去非《岭外代答》中“蛮马之来,他货亦至”的记载,就是最好的说明。据清《光绪普洱府志》:“西蕃之用普茶,已自唐时”,(明)李时珍《本草纲目》中有“普洱茶出普洱”的记载。是因滇茶(紧压茶)制作和销售集中在普洱府(今普洱县),“普洱茶”因地而得名,名驰海内外。茶马古道成为马帮运输茶叶的专线,应是在云南茶业贸易兴旺的明、清时期。滇茶主要产于澜沧江流域,尤以思普区(今西双版纳)的“六大茶山”(攸乐、革登、倚邦、莽枝、蛮砖、曼撒)著名,“周八百里,入山作茶者数十万人”。清顺治十八年(1661年),清政府同意西藏达赖喇嘛请求,在北胜(今云南永胜)设立茶马互市。规定每匹上马换茶40斤,中马换30斤,下马换20斤。一年运往藏区的注册销量达3000担。清雍正十三年(1735年)10月,朝廷设思茅厅并准许征收茶捐,普洱府发出“茶引”3000引(担)。一地有茶,一地需茶,“茶马古道”不言而喻应是以普洱为中心,在云南原有民间商道或官方驿站的基础上向南北的延伸与东西延展。茶马古道贯穿云南全省,分别向西藏、昆明至四川、广西到中原及东南亚的缅、泰、越诸国发展。普洱茶越陈越香的独特韵味,就是在几百年前人背马驮穿越崇山峻岭的运输途中凸显出来。“茶马古道”的路线,可分为北道(贡茶道)、西道及南道,既有主、次,又有官道、商道之分,现分别论述如下:

1.北道,即“贡茶路”
北道,即由思茅至省城昆明。途经那科里、普洱、磨黑、通关、墨江、阴远、元江、青龙厂、化念、峨山、玉溪、晋宁到达昆明。云南贡茶,自清康熙元年(1662年)始,“饬云南督抚派员,支库款,采买普洱茶5担运送到京,供内廷饮用”。从此形成定例,按年进贡一次。到清嘉庆元年(1796年)改为10担。其品种有普洱小茶、普洱女儿茶、普洱蕊茶、普洱茶膏等。(清)曹雪芹《红楼梦》中“女儿茶”,为普洱贡茶中的一种,是装在银瓶中作贡。每年派官员支库银到思普区采办就绪后,由督辕派公差押运。清道光十八年(1838年)道光皇帝赐给“车顺号”主人例贡进士车顺来“瑞贡天朝”的匾额,这是普洱茶的最高荣誉。据(清)阮福《普洱茶记》云:“普洱茶名重天下,味最酽。京师尤重之,于二月间采蕊,极细而谓之毛尖以作贡。”贡茶征购完备后,方许民间进行采购。贡茶运至昆明检验后由差员押运,在驮运马帮的马驮子上插有“奉旨纳贡”杏黄旗,走滇黔线,经平彝(富源)胜镜关入贵州,经湖南至京城(北京)。人们将此道称为“皇家贡道”,也是商旅的通京大道。

云南与四川的古代交通,原有建昌路,即到昆明至富民→武定→马鞍山→元谋→金沙江→姜驿→黎溪→凤营山→会理→巴松→白水→德昌→禄马→西昌→礼州→泸沽→晃山→越西→黎州→荥经→雅州→邛崃→新都→双流→成都,再进入陕西或西蕃进行茶马贸易。这条道所经路段为元、明以来的驿站,路线由普洱→昆明→京城为贡茶道。茶运至昆明后,从滇东北走“蜀身毒道”的“石门道”(朱提道)、“僰道”入四川。据《滇程记》记载:经嵩明→寻甸→东川8日程。向北行4日到昭通,向北经大关至盐津共6日程,再北经筠连→高县→庆符至叙府(宜宾)6日程,总计24日程,1665里到宜宾。从宜宾可乘船沿长江而下入湖北至杭州,转“京杭大运河”到京城;或溯岷江而上经嘉州(乐山)至彭县到达成都;或至嘉州(乐山)走青衣江道,即溯青衣江而上至雅安→邛崃→成都后,再走川藏线入西藏或走川陕路到陕西进行茶马贸易等的多条通道。

2.西道,即主道
西道,是茶马古道的主线,是经思茅→那科里→普洱→西萨→景谷→按板→恩乐→者后→景东→鼠街→南涧→弥度→红岩→凤仪站入下关(大理);或从鼠街至蒙化(巍山)、大仓入下关(大理)。到大理后一路向西行,经漾泌→太平铺→曲硐(永平)→翻博南山至杉阳,过澜沧江霁虹桥至水寨→板桥→保山→蒲骠→过怒江至坝湾,翻越高黎贡山→腾冲→和顺→九保→南甸(梁河)→干崖(盈江)→陇川。据清乾隆《腾越州志·关隘志》记载:云南入缅甸有“八关”曰:铜壁、万仞、神护、巨石、铁壁、虎踞、天马、汉龙等,各守一路要害,均有道路通缅的陆路与水路。从陇川西行10日至缅甸的勐密,再西行2日至宝井,沿伊洛瓦底江南上至缅甸古都曼德勒;再西行5日至摆古(勃国);或入缅甸的八莫,再溯伊洛瓦底江而上,从恩梅开江、迈梅开江进入印度的阿萨姆邦,再进入不丹、尼泊尔入中国西藏的日喀则、拉萨等地。这是(唐)南诏时的“博南道”、“永昌道”,到腾冲再走“天竺道”出境,经缅甸到印度;另一路向北上经大理、喜洲、邓川、牛街(洱源)、沙溪(寺登街)、甸南、剑川、北汉场、铁桥城(丽江);或下线从邓川、北衙、松桂、鹤庆、辛屯、九和到丽江、铁桥城、中甸(香格里拉),过金沙江到奔子栏,翻怒山丫口到德钦,入川后至芒康走川藏路,入西藏进行茶叶交易。

在西道的主线上,村镇较为集中的地段,留下昔日民间“日中为市”的集市又称“四方街”,诸如下关喜洲、寺登街(剑川)、丽江等。西线到大理后,则可经漾泌、石门(云龙)至旧州,翻怒山至瓦窑、槽涧、泸水、六库、福贡、丙中洛、出石门关至西藏的察隅县。这条路因是沿怒江峡谷行走,其海拔在1500~2500米之间,无高大雪山阻隔,可常年通行。到察隅后,可由西藏出境至缅甸,再到印度。亦可经波密至拉萨、日喀则到尼泊尔、印度;另一条从四川的雅安,经康定、理塘、巴塘,在芒康、合江、左贡、邦达、昌都、加玉、阿兰多、墨竹、工卡到拉萨、日喀则到亚东出境到尼泊尔、印度。另外云南和四川经西藏到印度的路段,还常常相互借道,如网状一般。诸如从滇北中甸、德钦的道可入四川芒康,再经“西蜀经吐蕃同天竺道”,西北还有“唐蕃古道”等。大理沿蜀身毒道中的“博南道”至保山、腾冲,出境到缅甸八莫走“天竺道”,经缅甸至印度。

3.南道,即南亚的通道南道,即对老挝、交趾(越南)、暹逻(泰国)、甘蒲(缅甸)东南亚诸国,也可出缅甸到印度、尼泊尔、不丹的国际“茶马古道”。据(宋)杨佐《云南买马记》中记载:“大云南驿前有《里堠题》,东至戍州,西至身毒国,东至交趾,东北至成都,北至大雪山,南至海上,悉著其道之详。”文中记载的“交趾”,即越南,“身毒”,即“天竺”,今印度。说明西南滇、川、藏三省与东南亚诸国直到印度早在唐宋时已有交往。元至元二十四年(1287年),大旅行家马可·波罗,受元世祖忽必烈派遣由大都(北京)出发后到四川成都,走“清溪关道”入云南,经哈刺章(大理)、永昌(保山)、金齿(德宏)出境至甘蒲王朝(缅甸)、交趾(越南),至八百媳妇国(西双版纳)返回云南。走“步头道”(建水)至押赤(昆明),由“朱提道”经“僰道”返回大都。明、清以来由于思普地区普洱茶兴盛,这条道则成为茶叶贸易之路。据西双版纳相关的文史资料记载共有5条,即东出老挝、安南(越南);南出缅甸、暹逻;西出缅甸、印度。即经思茅4日至车里(景洪),南行8日至八百媳妇宣慰司(景迈),又西行至老挝,西南行15日至摆古,均可乘船从海路运送京城。出境经景栋、仰光再溯伊洛瓦底江而上至印度,另普洱至勐腊,出境老挝直至越南。向南则由普洱、勐海至老挝或普洱经元江、建水至蒙自、河口到越南。从滇南出思茅、车里至国外的“茶叶之路“或茶马古道已形成,印度、缅甸、暹逻(泰国)、老挝、柬埔寨、越南等国的商人均往来西双版纳、思茅、普洱贩运茶叶。这时滇南的元江、石屏、建水、开远、蒙自等城市兴起,成为茶马古道上的重要城市和交通枢纽。经“僰道”返回大都。明、清以来由于思普地区普洱茶兴盛,这条道则成为茶叶贸易之路。据西双版纳相关的文史资料记载共有5条,即东出老挝、安南(越南);南出缅甸、暹逻;西出缅甸、印度。即经思茅4日至车里(景洪),南行8日至八百媳妇宣慰司(景迈),又西行至老挝,西南行15日至摆古,均可乘船从海路运送京城。出境经景栋、仰光再溯伊洛瓦底江而上至印度,另普洱至勐腊,出境老挝直至越南。向南则由普洱、勐海至老挝或普洱经元江、建水至蒙自、河口到越南。从滇南出思茅、车里至国外的“茶叶之路“或茶马古道已形成,印度、缅甸、暹逻(泰国)、老挝、柬埔寨、越南等国的商人均往来西双版纳、思茅、普洱贩运茶叶。这时滇南的元江、石屏、建水、开远、蒙自等城市兴起,成为茶马古道上的重要城市和交通枢纽。建水、开远、蒙自等城市兴起,成为茶马古道上的重要城市和交通枢纽。

三、 茶马古道开发价值
21世纪初叶,随着现代交通更加发达,信息时代的到来,“最后的马帮”在云南的贡山消失了,清脆悦耳的马铃声变成了轰鸣的汽笛声,人们饮茶又迎来新的时代,云南、四川的茶价飚升之际,人们难免会问,茶马古道的价值何在呢?
马帮消失,古道上的遗迹也淡化了,然而茶马古道仍凸显出独特的文化,有着重要的开发价值:
其一,茶马古道是中国西南古代的一条重要对外交通线,有着厚重的文化积淀。茶马古道沿线留下众多的文物古迹,而且沿途风光秀美,民俗多姿多彩,有着重要旅游价值,可开辟为新的旅游线路。如今云南省茶马古道研究会会同云南省文化、交通、旅游部门正进行精心策划。在茶马古道沿线的重要城镇立茶马古道标志碑,使茶马古道像金线吊葫芦似的,把沿途的一粒粒珍珠串起来。诸如“普洱茶乡第一镇”易武、“孔雀之乡”景洪、“普洱茶城”普洱市、“佛迹之乡”景谷、“红茶之乡”凤庆、“银生城”景东、“南诏故都”巍山、“沱茶故乡”大理、“迤西商帮”喜洲、“白族商城”鹤庆、“茶马驿站”寺登街、“世界名城”丽江、“茶马古镇”束河、“香格里拉”中甸等等,这样做既能提高各地城市的知名度,又能促进茶马古道沿线的文化保护。使茶马古道与香格里拉旅游线交相辉映,让人们更好地领略大西南的美妙神奇。

其二、如今茶为国饮,茶价飚升,给西南茶业带来新的契机。我们可遵循“政府主导、企业参与、市场运作”发展文化产业的运作原则,文商结合,在茶中注入文化,大力打造茶文化品牌,促使各地茶产业从卖茶资源到卖茶文化,再到卖品牌的转化,使茶的资源优势(含文化优势)转化为经济优势。茶是绿色食品,茶叶种植是扶贫工程,茶产业是文化产业、朝阳产业,能让茶农笑了、茶商笑了、政府也笑了,饮茶的人健康了,社会和谐了。

其三、“中国茶圣”陆羽在《茶经》中开宗明义地说:“茶者,南方之嘉木也!”云南、四川有丰富的茶资源,亟待进一步的发掘,过去由于“茶”与“史”分裂,在一定程度上懂茶的人不懂史,研究史的人不研究茶,今后要发挥云南、四川茶的优势,则要使“茶”与“史”有机结合起来,从纵向到横向开展多学科开发性研究,促进茶文化的发展,使茶叶成为最佳的绿色饮品,“普洱茶成为可喝的古董,可收藏的文物”。同时,也要编撰出版有关茶马古道与茶文化的专著(含音像作品就),使之成为茶文化产业的重要部分,促进大西南茶业的腾飞。

《国际名茶专刊》第十五期 文/张楠

Thursday, May 29, 2008

Brief History and background of Pu-Er

INTRODUCTION

We have read through many literature including both Chinese and English and found many differences in what was being recorded. It is true that many English translations were made from Chinese books and such translations may have misinterpreted certain crucial aspects of the background of pu-er. We attempted to gather as much information as possible from various sources and to summarize the history of pu-er as accurately as possible. Though we must say, there are still some ambiguous points to what we understand. However, this can be use as a very brief summary of the general history of the sought after tea, Pu-Er.

THE ANCIENT TEA HORSES




PU-ER is a county in the south western part of China and Pu-Er tea originated from Yunnan province is a large leaf tea. Pu-er tea is thus named after its origins. There are no confirmed records but it is believed that pu-er tea existed for more than 2200 years. It was already admired and drank by noblemen a long long time ago. During the early years of Tang Dynasty, horses were used to transport tea from Yunnan along the "old tea horse roads" in caravans. Many traders flocked Pu-Er to acquire the tea and horses were also used to travel on the "tea horse roads" to send their goods back to Vietnam, Tibet, etc. Pu-er was traded as currencies and horses were the main form of transportation then up until the Ming and Qing dynasty when there were at least 5 main "tea highways".

Such highways linked Pu-Er to as far as Thailand and Malaysia in the south while extending its length to Beijing in the north and from the east to the west linking Pu-Er to Nepal. Such great distances required long journey time as horse caravans travelled at a very slow pace. Traders needed to maximized their transporting time and space which led them to think of compressing the tea for easier handling and transportation. However, it was coincidental that the traders discovered that the tea gave a better taste at the destination after the long haul journey. It was then the traders started to learn that the tea leaves begin to ferment during the journey which produces a strong unique aroma which appeals to tea drinkers. The fermentation process was then developed to imitate the natural fermentation process during the long journey.

DISTINCTIVE PU-ER TASTE

The artificial fermentation of Pu-er tea is aimed to accelerate the aging process to oxidize the tea leaves at a greater pace to achieve the appealing pu-er taste. Generally, raw pu-er requires a minimum of 10 years to mature giving a smoother and better taste. The longer the raw pu-er is kept the better. However, the taste of the pu-er depend highly on the keeping process as well. 

PU-ER NOW

The hype of current collecting and trading of pu-er tea started only in the 80s and the market value of pu-er tea can escalate exponentially for very rare and hard-to-get pu-er. Such hype started in the southern part of China and extended globally.